Modified Right Angle Weave
So, what is Modified Right Angle Weave (MRAW)? Why would you need to know about it? And how do you learn it? These are the questions I’m going to be answering here for you today, so read on if this interests you. Hint: if you like beading around cabochons, you really need to know MRAW…
What is Modified Right Angle Weave?
Now, you probably know that you can use Right Angle Weave (RAW) to create full pieces of jewellery or beadwork. But did you also know you can use it to create a casing to fit around a cabochon? If you are doing this, then, after creating the initial RAW row, you will convert to Peyote stitch to pull the casing inwards around the stone.
That is the technique I used when I bezelled the cabochon in the necklace you see in the photo. (Like the project? You can get the pattern here).
So, you can stitch the RAW row, then add the Peyote edge. But you can also do all this in one step, using Modified Right Angle Weave (MRAW).
There may be other types of project where you want to convert from RAW to Peyote and you can use MRAW in all these cases.
Why should you use MRAW?
Apart from saving time by doing two steps at once, a lot of people actually find MRAW a lot easier to understand than RAW.
Although the bead layout ends up the same, the thread path for MRAW means that you will be working round in circles in a single direction. So, you can forget that complicated RAW technique of working one circle clockwise, then the next one anti-clockwise.
With MRAW, the end result is the same, but the process is considerably easier. Take a look at the diagram: the top two rows illustrate the thread path for the RAW row. At the bottom, you can see the Peyote row being added in the lighter green beads.
You hopefully noticed that the thread path for the RAW moves clockwise around the first unit, then anti-clockwise to add the second unit, then clockwise again to add the third unit, and so on. I am about to show you the MRAW thread path so you can see the difference. If you don’t understand how basic RAW works, you can learn it here.
How to do Modified Right Angle Weave
To make life easier for this project, find three colours of bead – make sure they are all the same size and shape. Then label colour 1 (A), colour 2 (B) and colour 3 (C). I will refer to the beads by their letter name so you can easily see what you are doing.
Pick up 1(A), 1(B), 1(A), 1(B) and pass through all the beads again to form them into a circle. Knot your working and tail threads to hold the circle secure. Pass your working thread on round to exit from an (A) bead.
Note: this is exactly the same start as for unit 1 of RAW – the difference starts to become apparent in unit 2.
Pick up 1(C), 1(A), 1(B), 1(A). Pass through the nearest (B) from unit 1, then through the first (A) you just added.
That’s it! You have just completed Unit 2. So, you should be able to identify the (A) beads sitting at the top and bottom of the unit and the (B) beads at either side. The (C) bead is the modified bead – it snuggles at the top between the two units, just like the Peyote beads did in the diagram in my bezel demonstration at the start.
Repeat step 2. Notice how you are travelling in the same clockwise direction around your circle as you add each unit. I also find that the extra bead helps the RAW beads to pull into shape more clearly than they might in a simple RAW row. You can just keep adding units using this technique, until your strip is the length you need.
Now, if you are beading around a cabochon or rivoli, then you will want to join your row into a circle. This is also very simple. Remember how you learned to join a strip of RAW to create the base for a tube? Well, the process is similar for MRAW.
In the diagram below, your final unit is on the left. Unit one of your strip will be pulled around so that it sits on the right.
Pick up 1(C), 1(A) and pass through the (B) on the end of unit 1 (black thread path). Pick up 1(A) and pass through the (B) on the end of your final unit, then pass through the (A) you just added (red thread path).
To complete this and set up for the Peyote, just pick up 1(C) and pass through the (A) on unit 1 and then the next (C), just like a Peyote step up (blue thread path).
So, this gives you the Peyote edge (effectively row 1 of the Peyote section) to your RAW base.
If you want to see MRAW in action and learn from video, click on this link to take my free online course.
Once you understand the logic of the thread path, practise a few samples using beads all in one colour. So, without having the colouring to help, you will be able to test your understanding and ability to read the beads. Now you’re ready to move on to encasing cabochons and trying other projects!